Winery profile: Fifth generation of family now operating, expanding Fernwood Cellars

Winemaker uses only grapes grown on the property to make fine wines

Published in the November 2 – 15, 2016 issue of Gilroy Life

By Lauren Newcomb

If the premise that history goes into every bottle of wine rings true, then Fernwood Cellars has plenty of yesteryear in its vino. The winery located in the mountains west of Gilroy has a rich past spanning six generations and steeped in fire and destruction, as well as care and devotion.

“Our origins begin on the historic Redwood Retreat Road,” said Lani Dorff, director of marketing and advertising. “It takes its name from ‘Redwood Retreat,’ which was a metaphysical resort in the 1800s, then a family ranch, and now home of Fernwood Cellars.”

In 1863, Charles and Annis Sanders left the California Gold Rush to build a homestead. In 1891, they added a Victorian hotel called Redwood Retreat. The resort hosted the first outdoor swimming pool in Santa Clara County, as well as bocce ball and lawn tennis courts. Vineyards, apple and prune orchards, and a large garden supplied both the family and the hotel guests.

The resort met with misfortune in the early 1900s when a fire destroyed the magnificent lodge that entertained thousands of guests. Although it was quickly rebuilt, the resort was forced to close during the Great Depression in the 1930s. The property came into use again in the 1950s as a vacation home for the family. Unfortunately, it fell into disrepair and closed in the 1960s again when another fire burned through it.

Finally, in 1991, Linda Oetinger, a member of the forth generation of the original Sanders family, restored and renovated the property. She planted the vineyards and established a water system, laying the groundwork for the winery it was to become.

Linda’s son, Matt Oetinger, built the winery on Redwood Retreat land and established Fernwood Cellars, becoming the fifth generation of this pioneering family to work and improve the land. After graduating from the University of California, Davis with a major in biology, Matt became the assistant to the chair of the Viticulture and Enology Department. He then became vineyard manager at Clos LaChance Winery.

“Matt continued to pursue his love for wine making,” Dorff said. “Now he devotes most of his time and passion toward the evolution of Fernwood Cellars.”

To that effect, Matt and Tiffany Oetinger have recently enhanced Redwood Retreat to improve the wine tasting experience as well as made it into a venue for weddings and other private events.

Matt, a second-generation winemaker, was introduced to winemaking by his father, Lew Oetinger, who owned Hummingbird Hill Vineyards. “He believes it’s in his blood,” Dorff said. “Matt felt serious enough about making wine that he earned a degree in biology to add to what he already knew about winemaking.”

A multitude of varietals make up the offerings of Fernwood Cellars, including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah. Because the property spans 112 acres of rugged Santa Cruz mountain terrain, it features a variety of micro-climates suitable to specific grapes. As an example, Dorff described the Chardonnay grapes as benefiting from heavy marine influence because of their location high up on the property.

Soon, Fernwood Cellars will be releasing a special, limited production of its 2013 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. “We affectionately call it the ‘O,’” Dorff said, “as homage to the Oetingers’ passion for creating excellence in the wine we make.”

The “O” is a rich and complex red wine, with layers of blackberry and briar fruit, and accented with a touch of what they call “Martha’s Mint.” Elegant, dusty tannins with dry herb and gravelly earth give way to a long, lingering finish to complete this 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dorff said.

Fernwood’s company motto, “Quality is Timeless,” informs everything they do. Every decision they make, from barrel choice to pruning regime to equipment purchasing, is driven by the question of what will make the best wine possible.

“We only make wine from grapes we grow,” Dorff said. “This may seem like a common sense sort of thing, but it places Fernwood Cellars in roughly 7 percent of this industry.” They also insist on using only the best new oak barrels, which allows them to consistently make fine wine.

Fernwood Cellars is a boutique-sized winery that produces about 2,000 cases per year. The majority of their wine is sold to club members and through their website at www.fernwoodcellars.com. The tasting room is open to the public on the first and third weekends of the month, both Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. for tasting and wine purchases.

Every sip of Fernwood wine contains a taste of history.